Copyright 2004 Martian Auctions

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GARAGE 49 Copyright 2004 Martian Auctions 221 1. Build the foundation and floor 1.1 Carefully mark the location of the garage on your lot. Hire a surveyor to precisely locate the site for the garage and define the excavation area. 1.2 Have a contractor excavate the designated site to the required depth. He will properly dispose of the dirt excavated. 1.3 In order to build the foundation, we recommend you contract out this job. The foundation specialist will start with the footing, the con
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    49      GARAGE Copyright 2004 Martian Auctions 221  1. Build the foundation and floor    1.1   Carefully mark the location of the garage on your lot. Hire a surveyor toprecisely locate the site for the garage and define the excavation area.   1.2   Have a contractor excavate the designated site to the required depth. He will properly disposeof the dirt excavated.   1.3   In order to build the foundation, we recommend you contract out this job. The foundation specialist will start with the footing, theconcrete walls and backfilling before making the foundation slab. Make sure that anchor bolts are encased, centered every 4 feet (1.2m).   2. Build the walls   2.1   Outside walls  Start the outside walls building them flat on the ground, using lumber with less than 19% moisture content. Wall studs should becentered every 16 in. (406 mm) and made of 2 x 4 in. (50 x 100 mm) timber. Strengthen the base of the walls with a 4 in. (100mm) bottom plate in which you will drill holes every 4 ft. (1.2 m) for the anchor bolts.   2.1.1   Copyright 2004 Martian Auctions 222  Separate the top and bottom plate slightly more than a stud'slength apart with the bottom plate positioned nearest the wall'sfinal location. Center the studs every 16 in. (406 mm). Attach pre-nailed double 2 x 4 in. (50 x 100 mm) top plates abovethe studs.   2.1.2   A secondary stud made of two planks solidly nailed together will delineate the sides of thedoor or window opening and support the coping.   2.1.3   The lintel (window contour) load will be transmitted to the twinstuds on each side of the opening. To install a lintel, nail a 2 x 10in. (50 x 254 mm) each wall face. Fill the empty space betweenthem with insulation material.   2.2   The garage door framing  Build the two short sections on either side of the large opening usingthree 2 x 6 in. (50 x 152 mm) studs nailed together. The top part of the frame (called lintel or header), is made up of three 2 x 10 in. (50 x254 mm) nailed together then nailed to the trimmer studs of the twoside sections.   2.3   Sheathing and air barrier   Copyright 2004 Martian Auctions 223    2.3.1   The suggested sheathing material is 4 x 8 ft (1.2 x 2.4 m) tarredfiberboard panels. Use a thin plastic air barrier.   2.3.2   First, apply the sheathing, positioning the panels on the wall (that is still flat on the ground)and nail to frame with dog nails. Apply the air barrier and nail or staple into place. Lastly,install fillers every 16 in. (406 mm).   2.4   Before lifting the wall into place, make sure the bottom plate is wellpositioned. At this stage, make sure you have enough people to lift and holdthe wall in position while bracing. Nail braces from the top of the wall intostakes driven into the ground outside the wall and nail the wall upright to holdit temporarily.   3. Build the roof    3.1   With the walls up, you should close the roof as soon as possible to avoid rain or wind damageto the inside of your garage. Roof trusses are a pre-built series of structural membersdesigned to carry the load of the roof to the outside walls. Trusses are built in specialfactories to the individual specifications for your garage plans.   Copyright 2004 Martian Auctions 224
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